HL-S1-B(WT) — hidden WiFi + RF + push AC triac dimmer
This module sits on the mains side of the lighting circuit. It phase-cuts the 100–240 V supply so you can dim and switch lamps that are actually built to be mains-dimmable. Typical jobs: a cluster of dimmable GU10s, a mains-dimmable downlight circuit, or a 12/24 V LED strip that is fed by a triac-dimmable constant-voltage driver (the driver is on the dimmed live, not this module on the low-voltage output).
The housing is small enough (about 52 × 52 × 26 mm) to go in a standard UK wall box behind a retractive push plate. Occupants still get a normal wall button. You add the phone app, voice, or a handheld RF remote on top when the client wants it.
Buy this when
- You need smart or remote dimming on existing mains-dimmable lamps or a triac-dimmable driver, and you want the electronics hidden.
- The wall box has a neutral as well as live — this dimmer needs both on the input (L and N).
- You want one device that can take a push switch, Tuya / Smart Life, Alexa or Google, and Hi-Line 2.4 GHz single-colour RF remotes.
How people control it
- Retractive push switch on terminals A1 / A2: short press on/off, long press (1–6 s) ramps brightness; the next long press ramps the other way. Last level is remembered, including after a power cut.
- Tuya Smart or Smart Life on the phone: on/off, slider, delay, timer, scenes. Pair by holding Match 5 s (or two quick Match presses) until the blue LED flashes, or by cycling the supply five times quickly. Use the 2.4 GHz SSIDs on the router — 5 GHz will not join. Do not hide the SSID. After WiFi is in, Bluetooth can be used as a short-range fallback; Bluetooth alone without a WiFi setup does not work.
- Alexa / Google Assistant once the app device is linked (on/off and brightness by voice).
- Hi-Line 2.4 GHz RF remotes (single-colour / dimming models): short-press Match on the dimmer, then the remote on/off or zone key. About 30 m in open space; treat 10–15 m through walls as realistic.
The same module can also act as a WiFi-to-RF converter: once it is on the app, you can match other Hi-Line 2.4 GHz RF dimming controllers or drivers to it and run those from the phone. That is useful when the lamps themselves sit on a low-voltage RF dimmer, and this unit is only the smart bridge.
Electrical — read before you order
- Input / output: 100–240 V AC, one channel, max 1.5 A
- Headline power band on the case: 150–360 W (depends on load type and voltage)
- Dimmable LED lamps: 200 W @ 220 V / 100 W @ 110 V
- Triac-dimmable LED drivers: 200 W @ 220 V / 100 W @ 110 V
- Incandescent / HV halogen: 400 W @ 220 V / 200 W @ 110 V
- Worked examples at 220–240 V: about twenty 5.5 W downlights, fifteen 12 W, four 36 W, or two 75 W — then check surge (below)
- Terminals: INPUT L N, OUTPUT L N. Push: A1 / A2, 100–240 V. Conductor 0.5–2.0 mm², strip 4–5 mm
- Over-heat and over-load with automatic recovery
- IP20, indoor, dry location only. Ta −20 °C to +55 °C, Tc max 85 °C
Inrush / surge — the usual reason lamps flash or the dimmer trips
LED lamps and triac drivers take a short spike when they start. The factory limit is a combined surge of 130 A (or two times 65 A). Count of drivers is also capped by 200 W ÷ each driver’s rated input watts. Example: a 15.4 W driver with 10 A surge → 200 / 15.4 ≈ 13 pieces, and 13 × 10 A = 130 A, so 13 is the ceiling. If you are stacking many GU10s or several drivers, add the Hi-Line HL-S1-SX surge suppressor from the Related products tab rather than guessing.
Leading or trailing edge — set the DIP before you power it
The small DIP next to the Match key selects forward-phase (leading) or reverse-phase (trailing). Confirm the lamp or driver datasheet, set the switch, then apply power. Most modern LED lamps and Hi-Line triac drivers prefer trailing edge. Wrong edge is the usual cause of buzz, shimmer or a lamp that only jumps between a few levels.
Minimum brightness can be parked at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 or 30 % (hold Min set 10 s, then tap 1–6 times). Use this when lamps glow or flicker at the bottom of the slider. On/off fade is 0.5 s from the factory; three Match taps after a double power-cycle flips it to 3 s. A 20 s hold on Match restores those factory defaults (5 % floor, 0.5 s fade).
What to put with it — use the Related products tab
Open Related products on this page for the matching Hi-Line pieces we keep on the shelf:
- HL-R11 / HL-R6 / HL-R6-1 — 2.4 GHz single-colour remotes (one zone or four zones). An RGB or RGB+CCT remote does not pair with this dimmer.
- HL-S1-SX — surge current suppressor when many LED lamps or several triac drivers share one dimmer.
- HL-TS-K(WT) — same job as a visible glass rotary wall plate if you do not want a hidden module behind a push button.
The user manual PDF is on the Attachments tab (factory pages, Hi-Line website on each page). Wiring diagrams there show the two legal loads: dimmable mains lamps on the dimmed live, or a triac-dimmable driver then the low-voltage lamps.
Technical summary
- Functions: WiFi + 2.4 GHz RF + retractive push, 1 channel AC phase-cut
- Dimming: 256 levels, 0–100 %, leading or trailing edge
- WiFi: 2.4 GHz only | RF range: up to 30 m open / ~15 m typical indoors
- Size: 52 × 52 × 26 mm (pack about 60 × 60 × 40 mm) | about 61 g
- Marks: UKCA, CE, RoHS | EN 60669-1/-2, EN IEC 55015 / 61547, ETSI EN 300 328 / 300 440 / 301 489
- Warranty: 5 years
Must be installed by a qualified electrician to BS 7671 / IET Wiring Regulations. Confirm load type, wattage and inrush before first power-up. Wrong polarity or a short on the output will damage the dimmer.
